Culinary tourism: Merridale Ciderworks

Be it the Okanagan or Vancouver Island, visiting a vineyard for a tasting and a bite to eat is a nice diversion, but how about heading out to an apple orchard and cider operation for a change of pace?  Well, we were on the island recently and my cousin said we had to check out Merridale, and it took very little arm-twisting to get us to agree.  Located in Cobble Hill (Duncan area in the larger island-sense),  you really get out into some nice country here.  Once at the orchard, you can tour the charming buildings of cider operation, the orchard (nicer shade offered than a vineyard), the trout pond, visit the spa, or even try your hand at spotting the apple blossom faeries that run rampant in the area.  Then you can sample some product, shop in the store which offers selections from several local artisans, or have a bite in the nice restaurant.

How's the cider?  Not so easy to answer.   Merridale has several.  I won't tell you my favorite, you want to be unbiased when you try for yourself.  They also venture into fortified cider (like a fortified wine), brandy and even an apple based vodka!  They actually were recently awarded the honour of being B.C.'s first qualified craft distillery for their efforts in crafting the vodka.  Being an operation that values the natural process of things, Merridale also employs the services of a few hives of previously out of work bees to help the orchard along.  In exchange, the bees provide some lovely honey which is also available in the store.

So next time you are on the Island, or if you are fortunate enough to already live there, take a trip out to the country and have a sip of cider.  You could do worse.  You can find Merridale Ciderworks at 1230 Merridale rd., Cobble Hill, B.C.

Restaurant review: El Parian

I'm not sure if this really counts as a restaurant review or cantina review, but I'm not starting a new category - you can get food and drink here and that's enough.  Our hosts in Guadalajara said we had to come here for a couple principle reasons - it's one of the best places to see Mariachis and drink tequila (two of the three things you MUST do in Guadalajara), and it's the largest cantina in the world - ok, I'm intrigued.  Set in a grand old building with a garden courtyard in the Tlaquepaque area of the city, El Parian is actually a cluster of cantinas all co-operating as one.  

Depending on the individual section you sit in, the food is "standard" for Guadalajara - which means it is pretty great for bar food anywhere else in the world.  What stands out will be the very impressive menu of tequilas.  Think Mexico is all cheap?  Work out the exchange on some of the premium varieties on the bottom of the list.

The setting is fantastic, open air, trees, and a great building in itself.  The entertainment is just what you came for, roving bands of mariachis for hire - at times four or five playing simultaneously around the courtyard.  A few times a day, the central bandstand fires up with the main band along with a nice review of regional music and dance from around the country - you came for a taste of culture right?  Sure, on the surface, it seems a bit touristy, but with good friends, tequila and mariachis you can't help but have a great time.  Go to the main plaza in Tlaquepaque and it's just southeast - look for the big sculpture of the mariachi, and it's the big building behind.

Restaurant review: La Chata (Guadalajara)

So there we were in Guadalajara, the clock is ticking, we need to eat a Torta Ahogada, so where do we go?  Really, you can pretty much get one almost anywhere here, but Ismael suggested we go to La Chata to get our fix.  Conveniently located near the centro historico, it was an easy stop for lunch after a nice walk around town.  This isn't a small place, but they keep it packed and maintain a line out the sidewalk at most times - must be pretty good.  What especially touched my heart was being offered a complimentary beer (not some pansy-ass virgin cocktail) once we got to the indoor section of the line.  La chata is known as well for pozole and platillo jaliscence (a fried chicken dish), but we came for the tortas.

What is a torta ahogada?  It translates to "drowned sandwich", reminiscent of a pambazo, but mostly for the fact that the sauce is on the outside of the bread.  Done properly, there is a specific type of crusty bread used (birote) that holds up well to being sauced.  Inside is sliced or chopped roast pork (usually leg), then the whole thing is smothered in a spicy sauce.  La Chata's sauce is available in a toned down version probably better suited to visitors, but if you want you can get the "original" sauce (we drizzled some over the top of our tortas) for the real experience - be warned, it will rip your face off.  Depending on your sense of public cleanliness, this is most likely a knife and forker to eat.

Get your sandwich on.  Or whatever you fancy.  Find La Chata at Avenue Corona 126.

yea baby!

Culinary tourism: Guadalajara

On our way back to Mexico City, we made a stop in Guadalajara to have a look around and spend some time with a friend who used to live in Vancouver.  There are a few expressions that keep popping up with reference to Guadalajara - one is that to know Guadalajara is to know Mexico.  This isn't as arrogant as it sounds, rather a case of wholesome pride in your hometown - politically, Guadalajara has figured very prominently throughout Mexico's history, and culturally, Guadalajara has produced some of those things that have come to symbolize Mexico to the rest of the world - sombreros, mariachis, the Mexican hat dance, and the almighty tequila.  This leads to the other expression, which is that if you go to Guadalajara, you MUST listen to mariachis, drink tequila, and eat a torta ahogada (more on that to come) - well, if I have to I guess I will, I don't want anyone to get upset.

As for eating in general in Guadalajara, it seems pretty clear to me that you might need a year or two to really find all the gems here.  The good news is that if you are only here for a short stay, the odds of you stumbling upon a great meal are outstanding.  There are countless restaurants and cafes set up in beautiful colonial buildings - as a big fan of architecture, this is a giant bonus to a nice meal.

Of course, to sample the street food is to really get into it.  From a Canadian background, I've always been impressed at the variety of meats that you'll find offered as tacos in Mexico (lending to my theory that tacos, chapatis, pitas and all forms of flatbread worldwide are possibly the most perfect food).  Guadalajara seems to have taken things even further.  I've had tacos of cheeks, tripe, tendon, tongue, eyeball, heart, crickets, brain, and other more common cuts.  What first caught my eye in Guadalajara was a stand offering tacos de labio - lips!  By now it seems kind of obvious, but at that point I had never come across it in all my visits to Mexico.  We were actually doing quite a bit of eating while sightseeing, and I kept seeing these lip tacos offered after I had just eaten.  It became a mission that before we left the city, I had to leave room for one.  Finally, on our last night, our friend Ismael took us to his local guy, and lip tacos was only getting started!  I had my lip tacos (tender, juicy, and a bit deliciously fatty) and one of what translates to "the back of the tongue" (as you might expect, very similar to tongue and no less tasty).  Along with the usual large variety of meats on the menu were also tacos of ear, tail, nose, udder, lung and horn - horn!  How do you even do that?  I was fighting a bit of a cold, so I had to be satisfied that I completed my quest for the lips, but cudos buddy!  All these chefs up north bragging about "nose to tail" cooking still have a bit to learn.  Go Guadalajara!  Viva!

Culinary tourism: Boca de Tomates (Puerto Vallarta)

While we were in Puerto Vallarta, Carla and I came across a heavy recommendation to check out Boca de Tomates - it turned out to be one of the most unique dining experiences ever.  We had been out on the boats saying hello to the humpback whales when we were told about it - the other passenger literally pointed at it, "see that green patch on the beach, go there".  

What happens at Boca, is that there is a cluster of restaurants, pick one.  The special at these places is the fresh catch priced by the kilo.  Here's the kicker, once you order the special, you go back to the kitchen, look in a cooler, and pick out the fish that you want to eat - pick according to how many are eating because you are getting the whole thing.  They will then take your fish to the back, clean it and set it on a rack and slowly roast it over a fire.  You go back to your table, have a beer, enjoy the view and listen to some wandering mariachis - what's not to like?  And yes, it's delicious.

Boca de Tomates is around the bay to the north of Puerto Vallarta just past the airport, but it's a little trickier to get there.  If you have a car, great, just follow the bay around, go past the airport and find the dirt road heading toward the beach.  By bus, catch the one that says "Juntas - Boca" - they aren't very frequent, and we ended up catching a cab for the short ride.  Once you have gone down the dirt road a bit and see a fenced off creek area, stop and look for crocodiles - you're on the right track.  Our cab driver advised us to be careful if swimming at the beach near the creek mouth - sound advice absolutely.  For getting back, it's simply retracing your steps - if you are catching the bus back, ask someone at the restaurant to let you know when it pulls up - you don't want to have to wait for the next one.

Culinary tourism: Puerto Vallarta

Carla and I thought it would be a nice idea to take baby Isabella to her first tropical beach, so off we went to Puerto Vallarta.  I had never been myself so I was excited too, but at the same time I'm wary of well known places because I hate feeling like another gringo tourist.  Maybe it was a bit slow season, but it was encouraging to see more locals than expats on the streets.  I expected to see monster nightclubs on the beach, but more importantly, I was especially pleasantly surprised at the quality of street food.

Of course, being a seaside town, you'd better be able to get some great seafood, but it was the street vendors who really took it to the next level.  We had found a nice hotel in the old town on Madero, which also happened to be one of the major streets for carts - so as soon as we dropped our bags off, we went for an unbelievable strolling dinner.  The meat, seafood, and salsas were all so delicious and fresh - at every spot too.  We would just hit one guy, try something, then move on to the next guy.  We'd make our way down to the beach, hang out a bit, then work our way back.  Don't get me wrong, we got to a couple restaurants during our stay, and they were very nice, but the best memories came from plastic chairs on the sidewalk.

Restaurant review: Ideal bakery (Mexico City)

Mexico has a love for pastry shops, and the Ideal bakery is one of the best.  Set in a beautiful old building, a visit here let's you admire some great colonial architecture while indulging your sweet tooth.  This place is pretty much always busy, so the rotation on the product is fantastic - when we were in ther last, the poor guy working in the shop could barely put down a tray of "besos" before it was cleaned out.  We usually go for a nice selection of pastries, but Ideal has great rolls and breads and can handle anything all the way up to elaborately themed wedding cakes.  Even if you are just there for some pastries, give yourself some time - the selection is colossal, and if you see an empty spot, it probably belongs to something really good and will get replenished in a few minutes.  And don't forget to admire the room and balance those calories with a little culture.  Happy hunting!

Culinary tourism: Le Merced (Mexico City)

Now, as a cook with a love for the pastry shop, Le Merced is a mandatory stop every time I'm in Mexico City.  As with most markets, most anything for day to day life can be found here, with one huge exception, the kitchen area.  This section of the market can and will outfit you with just about anything you could possibly need for cooking, at home or in a restaurant.  Full size deep fryers, industrial crepe skillets, taco carts, replacement burners for your gas stove - these are among the larger items you'll find.  These are a little larger than what I'm usually shopping for, but always interesting to check out.  Where I find gold is in the pastry related shops.  Bunuelo forms and countless molds of all shapes and sizes, uniquely themed cutter sets for intricate garnishes or cookies.  When we were down one year before Dia de Los Muertos, I stocked up on really cool sugar skull and gelatin molds.  This year, we picked up a really nice comal for home and a replacement blade for our blender at a great bargain.  Definitely a must see for cooks, especially if you are visiting around a major holiday.  Get off the metro at Merced,  look around the market until you see great masses of stainless steel, and you're there.

Product review: Tortilleria Yasmin (Mexico city)

Tortillas - they're a beautiful thing.  So simple, but can be taken in so many directions depending on your mood.  As the guero son-in-law, I've come to appreciate the position tortillas enjoy in everyday life in Mexico.  They can be a key element in a celebratory meal, or they can take a back seat and function as table bread, just to nibble on or sop up some extra sauce on the plate.  Whatever the case, I've also noticed that people are loyal to the tortillerias they go to - I've seen great debates in the family over who makes the best and I've taken long car rides out of the way just to get to the right one.  As an outsider, it's hard to appreciate these subtle differences - compared to the tortillas we get at home in Vancouver (which aren't all that bad), all the tortillas are good.  Picking a taco stand that makes it's own tortillas is a whole different issue altogether - hands down yes!  On this last trip, we sat down to a meal, and I actually noticed something different - I had to ask (translated from my Spanish) "These tortillas are amazing!  Did you change tortillerias?"  They had.  Of all the tortillas I've eaten over the years, nothing has ever come so close to being so tender, fresh and flavourful.  You can bend and fold these in any direction and they just don't crack, yet they are so soft and can hold in a saucy mix like no other.  I made them show me where it is, and it's actually on the way from one abuela's house to the other's.  Out of sheer excellence, I'm sharing them with you, because if you happen to be in Mexico city, and happen to be near the Rodeo area, you will be hard pressed to find a better product.  I couldn't actually find an address, but they are on calle 32, just off Ernesto Uruchurtu by a door or two.  Find it!

Restaurant review: Pujol

This year Carla and I had the pleasure of trying another of Mexico City's top restaurants - Pujol, headed up by Chef Enrique Olvera.  Along with Biko, Pujol boasts a position on the San Pellegrino list of the top 50 restaurants in the world (#36 in 2012).  Whereas Biko drew upon its Basque roots, Pujol is undeniably all about Mexico - but don't be fooled, the level of innovation in the presentation of the classics is extremely high while maintaining a very traditional feel.  One of the things that struck me the most was the hoja santa tortilla - upon presentation, you can only see the masa of the tortilla, but the underside has the leaf of the hoja santa fused to it.  As we usually do, Carla and I went for the tasting menu - here's how it went.

 The amuse bouche:  roasted baby corn with corn husk mayonnaise, a miniature aguachile, and a tea of corn and ancho chilis.

 Souffle with celery, lemon and coriander cream (inside) and caviar.

 Beef tartare tostada with alfalfa and serrano chili.

 Fish ceviche taco with hoja santa tortilla and beans.

The hoja santa side of the tortilla.

 Fried frog leg with chayote squash, cauliflower puree and poblano chili sauce.

  Squash blossom tamal with epazote xikil pak sauce and queso fresco.

 Suckling lamb taco with avocado and green pea puree, tomato and hoja santa sauce.

 Yucatean pork confit with raisin and cumin mole, almond, tamarind and clauliflower.

 Roasted baby banana, zested macadamia nut, chamomile, cacao and cream.

Thyme biscuit, lemon gelatin, pulque sorbet, cookie soup and white chocolate.

Guava sorbet, worm salt, and mezcal flambe.

Chocolate mousse with citrus cream.

We were also met at the door on our way out with some stellar mignardaise.

And there you have it.  As expected at this level, service was excellent, but the restaurant maintained a very relaxed and casual atmosphere.  They are very accommodating if you need English translation, just be aware that some local culinary terms just don't translate well.  Book in advance as most nights do tend to sell out.  Find Pujol at Francisco Petrarca 254 in Polanco, Mexico city.

Culinary tourism: Mercado San Juan (Mexico City)

So you got out to the Central de Abastos and experienced the mother of all markets, but where do you go if you are putting on a special meal and need a few ingredients that fall under a more "European" gourmet category?  If you happen to be around the Alameda or Centro Historico, pop into the fantastic Mercado San Juan and try to not come away with something exquisite.  

On the surface, it seems like another of countless markets around the city and you might pass it by, but venture in, and the world is at your feet.  This Market has set itself apart because almost every vendor inside is some kind of specialist in some sort of imported or specialty goods.  Premium Spanish jamon and some of the finest charcuterie around?  Easy.  Some of the finest cheeses Europe has to offer?  Right here.  Even if you just wanted to see what a wild boar looks like, you just might find it.  Specialty fruits and vegetables - the selection brought in from Asia is especially impressive.  By now you'd expect some beautifully fresh seafood and poultry, and you're bang on.  Heck, maybe you just want to pop in for an Italian coffee and look at giant bags of morel mushrooms while eating a nice pastry.  You couldn't go very wrong with that.  Find it at Ernesto Pugibet 21 between Luis Moya and Buen Tono and treat yourself.

Culinary tourism: Central de Abastos (Mexico City)

One of my favorite things to do in Mexico City is to take a trip to the Central de Abastos - food-wise, there are few experiences like it in the world.  Central de Abastos qualifies as one of the largest markets in the world, we're talking a colossal network made up of a bunch of full sized warehouses and organized more or less like a mini city - really, the "aisles" are more appropriately referred to as streets.  I once ventured out to "cover" the whole market by walking every section, and it took me hours - what's more, this was only the interior, spilling out into the covered area outside, you'll find smaller vendors from individual farms.  

Central de Abastos is where larger stores in the city come to do their shopping, but it is completely open to the public as well.  Yes you can find just about anything here, but the food is where it gets magical.  There are a few shops dedicated to strictly to selling cilantro - I just walk in, close my eyes and smell.  The cheese merchants are mouth-watering, and the shops dedicated to chilis and spices will rock your senses (this is where we picked up the smoked jalapenos to make Abuela's chipotle).  This may be one of the only places you'll ever see huitlacoche still on the corn cob, and other select products like huazontle (the plant amaranth comes from) can be found in such quantities you'd think they were as common as broccoli.

a tortilleria and taco stand all in one - beautiful

As you spend a few hours exploring this monster market, make sure to stop at some of the stands for a bite to eat - these guys have no excuse but to serve up the freshest vittles.  For entertainment, watch for the crew of guys pushing a large palette up one of the ramps and follow them - when they reach the top, the lead will start to whistle wildly as they approach the opposite ramp, and the palette's crew can do little else but help steer as it careens downhill.  Needless to say, if you hear the whistling - heads up and clear the way - you  don't be anywhere in the middle of the ramp when it comes down (but you'll definitely want to watch!).

Restaurant review: Los Danzantes

If you are looking for a nice dinner out and want a bit of a departure from the national standards, Los Danzantes have you well taken care of.  I wouldn't question their patriotism, the food is undoubtedly Mexican, but they give their chefs freedom to interpret the national dishes as loosely as they like, and it's always interesting to have a meal with them.  Want even more interesting?  Forget microbrew pubs, these guys distil their own mezcal.  Carla and I first went to the one in Oaxaca City, and were so impressed we made sure to go to the one in Coyoacan as soon as we got back to Mexico City - loved it again.  In 2010, we made it to the one in Playa del Carmen to complete the trifecta.  Since Carla's family is from the capital, we know the Coyoacan branch the best, but we always enjoy it and find something interesting on the menu.  Over the years, at various restaurants, we have tried many interesting dishes, among the most notable, huitlacoche fondu and a quince and goat cheese empanada - one of the finest desserts you can imagine.  You'll find it a stone's throw away from the beautiful Parroquia de San Juan Bautista at Jardin del Centenario 12 (metro:  Viveros).

Restaurant review: El Quadrilatero

Sooner or later while in Mexico, you are going to have to have a torta.  They are not just a sandwich, they are a passion.  Usually you get them on a bolillo bun (similar to a Portuguese bun), they are generally served hot and stuffed with something delicious.  I don't think I've actually had a bad torta, but it has become a tradition of mine on my visits to go straight to the king - El Quadrilatero, and bear witness to the monster that is The Gladiator.  

Started by the luchador Super Astro, the restaurant is dedicated to  Mexican wrestling, and decorated appropriately.  More importantly, they dish out some of the finest tortas around and have no doubt about handling the biggest appetites, as they also specialize in making the most colossal sandwiches you've ever seen that actually get eaten (forget about Guinness record one-offs that take 16 people to hold it).  The giant of giants is The Gladiator, which reportedly weighs in close to 1.5kg, and there's usually one in the window on display.  If you can down The Gladiator in 15 minutes, it's on the house.  Thankfully, you can get regular sized tortas here too, including a "micro" version of The Gladiator, and yes, it's delicious.  7am - 8pm Mon - Sat.  Find it at Luis Moya 73 (metro:  Juarez).

the Gladiator!

Restaurant review: El Jarocho

El Jarocho has been absolutely killing it on the coffee front for decades.  It is mandatory for me to pay at least a couple visits anytime I'm in Mexico City.  Starbucks has arrived in town, but they have nothing on these guys - have you ever seen a Starbucks with daily lines down the block?  That's how good El Jarocho is, and their customers are loyal.  With three shops in the Coyoacan area, if you are faced with a big line at one, you might get lucky at another (as we did tonight).  For me, the Moka is the perfect blend of coffee and chocolate, for stopping by, but I'll usually grab a bag of beans to take home to Vancouver.  The chai tea is outstanding as well, if that's your bag - I'd put it up against just about anybody's.  6am - 1am daily. The main one is at Cauhtemoc 134 at the corner with Allende (metro:  Coyoacan).

Restaurant review: El Moro Churreria y Chocolateria

Most trips we take to Mexico City eventually find us at El Moro for churros and hot chocolate.  Just down the road from the Palacio Bellas Artes, it's centrally located and been delicious for over 70 years.  Watch them pipe the churros into bathtub sized fryers, then sip on one of a selection of premium hot chocolates available.  If you can handle a little extra sugar, the Espana is the thickest and best for dipping your churro.  24 hours a day most of the year and always hopping.  After walking around the Centro all day, you need a break.  Find it at Eje Central Lazaro Cardenas 42 (metro: San Juan de Letran).

Culinary tourism: Mexico City

Since we are in the spectacularly delicious city of Mexico for the holidays, I'm going to try to drop a few tips for travellers who really want to see the food side of the city.  As it is home to over 25 million people, it's pretty hard to cover it all, but there are some favourite spots I always come back to.  

First off, as beautiful as Mexico's beaches are, you just can't get the full historical and cultural picture of the country without a trip to the capital and some of the cities inland.  Food wise, one historical lesson I learned once was that long before colonialism, Mexico City has been the boss, like it or not.  Be it Aztec or Mayan, the rulers back in the day always got their taxes in the form of goods.  This meant that coastal areas sent fish.  Since you don't want to send your ruler stinky fish, they first built a road system (remember that old bit about all roads lead to Rome? Same deal), then they organized a cross country relay where a well packaged fish could get to the capital in a matter of days from sprinting runners.  What on earth does this mean today?  It means that there is a centuries old tradition that anything grown or caught in this varied countryside is available fresh in Mexico City nearly year round - how great is that?  It also means that if you can't get to some region of the country on your trip, you can probably find a good spot to eat their food here.

Mexicans are the masters of street food.  Back home, I find street food decent, but way over-priced and too showy.  Street food in Mexico is cheap and delicious and with all the flying knives, who needs a show?  Worried about Montezuma's Revenge?  Fair enough, here's my rules:  

- look for stands with lots of locals - they have the best food and the product is moving faster

- in the general scheme of things, how clean does the operation look?  It is street food after all

- does it smell good?  Bad meat doesn't clean up during cooking and you want delicious food anyway

- sometimes just go for it - if I didn't, I would never have tried tripe, brain, tendon, crickets, or worms 

If my recommendations seem a little hard to get to on your schedule, remember, with this many people in one place, good ideas spread like wildfire, and food is such an important part of life here, good cooks are everywhere.  Talk to people, ask where their favourite spot is, be brave and go.  Eat some brain, eat some tripe.  Eat the local cheese - good lord eat the cheese.

I've already written about Biko, a fantastic meal we enjoyed in 2010 on the bicentennial (literally, we ate on Independence Day), but it is actually only one of the restaurants in Mexico City that made it  onto San Pellegrino's list of the top restaurants in the world, and countless others that are tops in their own rights.