Friday, February 10, 2012

Recipe: Starchless mashed potatoes



Mashed potatoes - loved by (almost) everybody, a basic recipe known by (almost) everybody, so when it comes to a simple peasant dish, the competition is high.  If you want to impress, you need an ace in the hole.  This recipe actually makes it harder to mess up mashed potatoes (that over mixed, chunky gluey mess), in fact there have been times I've bent over backwards to put on an elaborate meal, have everything turn out great, and the potatoes steal the show.  What is important is the process of dealing with the potatoes, as per the butter and cream, I'm hesitant to give amounts because if you really want to get decadent and delicious, you'll want to judge by sight and taste to how far you go.  For a special occasion, I like to add as much butter and cream as the potatoes will physically hold without breaking - to the point of fear and guilt. As song as you keep it a secret, you guests will love it.

You will need:

potatoes             - I like Yukon Gold - give or take one per person should be plenty
cream                - this may vary according to your taste, but at least 1/4 C (60 ml) per potato
unsalted butter  - at least 2 Tbs (30 ml) per potato - be brave!
kosher salt        - to taste
thyme               - a few sprigs
garlic                - 1 small clove per potato
nutmeg             - a few rasps with a grater or a pinch of ground
a thermometer or kitchen probe
a ricer and a tamis sieve (or a masher and mesh strainer)

Method

 - peel and cut the potatoes into either small chunks or finger thick slices
 - rinse them under cold running water until it comes clear
 - smash the garlic and place it in a saucepot on low heat with the cream, herbs and a pinch of nutmeg
 - place the potatoes in a cooking pot with cold water and bring the temperature to 158 F (70 C)
 - hold the temperature and cook for 1/2 hour
 - strain and rinse under cold water until cool - most of the potato starch is now gone
 - put back into the pot with new water and cook normally until done
 - strain the potatoes, let some of the excess water evaporate
 - pass the potatoes through the ricer, or mash in the still warm cooking pot over very low heat
 - strain the infused cream
 - over very low heat, start adding the butter, cream and salt gradually and alternately until you love it
 - pass one last time through a tamis seive  or mesh strainer
 - enjoy!

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