Sunday, January 20, 2013

Culinary tourism: Central de Abastos (Mexico City)


One of my favorite things to do in Mexico City is to take a trip to the Central de Abastos - food-wise, there are few experiences like it in the world.  Central de Abastos qualifies as one of the largest markets in the world, we're talking a colossal network made up of a bunch of full sized warehouses and organized more or less like a mini city - really, the "aisles" are more appropriately referred to as streets.  I once ventured out to "cover" the whole market by walking every section, and it took me hours - what's more, this was only the interior, spilling out into the covered area outside, you'll find smaller vendors from individual farms.  

Central de Abastos is where larger stores in the city come to do their shopping, but it is completely open to the public as well.  Yes you can find just about anything here, but the food is where it gets magical.  There are a few shops dedicated to strictly to selling cilantro - I just walk in, close my eyes and smell.  The cheese merchants are mouth-watering, and the shops dedicated to chilis and spices will rock your senses (this is where we picked up the smoked jalapenos to make Abuela's chipotle).  This may be one of the only places you'll ever see huitlacoche still on the corn cob, and other select products like huazontle (the plant amaranth comes from) can be found in such quantities you'd think they were as common as broccoli.

a tortilleria and taco stand all in one - beautiful
As you spend a few hours exploring this monster market, make sure to stop at some of the stands for a bite to eat - these guys have no excuse but to serve up the freshest vittles.  For entertainment, watch for the crew of guys pushing a large palette up one of the ramps and follow them - when they reach the top, the lead will start to whistle wildly as they approach the opposite ramp, and the palette's crew can do little else but help steer as it careens downhill.  Needless to say, if you hear the whistling - heads up and clear the way - you  don't be anywhere in the middle of the ramp when it comes down (but you'll definitely want to watch!).

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