Culinary tourism: Merridale Ciderworks

Be it the Okanagan or Vancouver Island, visiting a vineyard for a tasting and a bite to eat is a nice diversion, but how about heading out to an apple orchard and cider operation for a change of pace?  Well, we were on the island recently and my cousin said we had to check out Merridale, and it took very little arm-twisting to get us to agree.  Located in Cobble Hill (Duncan area in the larger island-sense),  you really get out into some nice country here.  Once at the orchard, you can tour the charming buildings of cider operation, the orchard (nicer shade offered than a vineyard), the trout pond, visit the spa, or even try your hand at spotting the apple blossom faeries that run rampant in the area.  Then you can sample some product, shop in the store which offers selections from several local artisans, or have a bite in the nice restaurant.

How's the cider?  Not so easy to answer.   Merridale has several.  I won't tell you my favorite, you want to be unbiased when you try for yourself.  They also venture into fortified cider (like a fortified wine), brandy and even an apple based vodka!  They actually were recently awarded the honour of being B.C.'s first qualified craft distillery for their efforts in crafting the vodka.  Being an operation that values the natural process of things, Merridale also employs the services of a few hives of previously out of work bees to help the orchard along.  In exchange, the bees provide some lovely honey which is also available in the store.

So next time you are on the Island, or if you are fortunate enough to already live there, take a trip out to the country and have a sip of cider.  You could do worse.  You can find Merridale Ciderworks at 1230 Merridale rd., Cobble Hill, B.C.

Recipe: Lady fingers

Lady fingers are a noted classic.  They might be used in a tiramisu or an English trifle - or they can be enjoyed on their own as a light cookie with coffee or tea.  Either way, there's generally a huge difference between a store-bought product and one you made yourself.  They aren't that hard at all, so if you have the time, I highly recommend making your own.

You will need:

3                          eggs
125ml / 1/2C       sugar
2.5ml / 1/2tsp      vanilla
160ml / 2/3C       cake flour (all purpose will work if necessary)
as needed            icing sugar
as needed            pan spray

Method:

 - set the oven to 325F / 163C
 - separate the eggs
 - in a mixer, whip the whites on medium speed to a medium peak
 - meanwhile, whisk the yolks in another bowl with a quarter of the sugar until thick and pale
 - add the vanilla to the yolks, whisk again and set aside
 - sprinkle the rest of the sugar into the whites and whisk to a medium firm peak
 - fold in the yolks
 - sift the flour into the mix in 3 stages and fold in
 - load into a piping bag with a plain round tip (or no tip in a plastic disposable bag)
 - spray a cooking sheet lined with a silicone mat or paper with pan spray
 - pipe the "fingers"
 - sift icing sugar liberally over the fingers
 - bake for 12 - 15 minutes until the tops are slightly crisp and golden

Recipe: Smoky baba ghanouj (eggplant dip)

Some years ago, I did a bit of traveling in the Middle East and fell in love with the proper preparation of baba ghanouj.  I'd always been a fan, but never knew that what I had been enjoying was simply an eggplant dip - I had not tried the real deal.  It seems simple, but the biggest difference is that a proper baba ghanouj needs to have a certain smokiness about it as it usually begins with the whole eggplants being roasted in an old school oven, charcoal grill, or over a wood fire.  The difference turns a side dish into a meal - really, I would go into a restaurant and just order baba ghanouj and pita bread and I was good.  As a lot of the old-world methods of cooking are less available in Vancouver (pizza shops even need a special permit for wood ovens), I've adapted this recipe a bit to the equipment readily available, but arriving at the same destination.  If you can cook the eggplant old-school, do it!  Just remember to prick the eggplant with a fork well before roasting.  The onion nicely rounds out the flavour being sweated off, but if you like extra smokiness, slice it up and smoke it along with the eggplant.

You will need:

2                      large eggplants

1/2                   red onion

4 cloves           garlic

60ml / 1/4C     tahini

30ml / 2Tbs     lemon juice (or more to taste)

pinch                cumin

pinch                smoked paprika

as needed         olive oil 

as needed         black sesame seeds

as needed         kalonji (onion seed)

to taste             kosher salt

to taste             cracked black pepper

Method:

 - load up a smoker with wood chips and get it smoky

 - if you have a barbeque, set it on low - or set the oven to 325F / 163C

 - slice the eggplants into thick slices, brush with olive oil, and smoke for 30 minutes

 - if you have a barbeque, transfer the slices to the grill and cook soft - or roast in the oven

 - let the eggplants cool and remove the skin - optional - I don't mind it, but some do

 - mince the garlic and dice the onion small

 - sweat the onion and garlic in olive oil on low heat

 - when the onion and garlic start to colour, add a pinch of cumin and sweat a little more

 - in a food processor, blend the onion, garlic and tahini

 - roughly chop the eggplant and add it in

 - use the lemon juice and olive oil to taste 

 - if the taste is good, but it's too thick, add a little water

 - season with salt and black pepper

 - when serving, drizzle olive oil over it, and garnish with paprika, kalonji and black sesame

Recipe: Granola bars

Granola bars are just about the perfect food for a hike or emergency camping rations.  This recipe is a good base recipe to make the crispy kind.  I like the satisfying crunch of these and they are inherently drier than chewy ones, which makes them easier to pack and able to withstand a longer journey without refrigeration.  Like a lot of granola recipes, you can freestyle within the boundaries of the oats, seeds and nuts to create your own flavour.

You will need:

1L / 1qt                 oats
175ml / 6fl oz       slivered almonds
30ml / 2Tbs          sesame seeds
325ml / 11fl oz     corn syrup
25ml / 5tsp           water
20ml / 4tsp           vegetable oil
45ml / 3Tbs          brown sugar

Method:

 - set the oven to 280F / 138C
 - mix all the ingredients well
 - spread out on a paper lined baking sheet (two if you want thin bars)
 - pack the mix into the sheet and make it evenly flat
 - with a palette knife "cut" the bars or whatever shapes you choose
 - bake the bars until golden brown (up to an hour)
 - cool on a rack
 - break the bars off along the cuts you made
 - pack for your hike and go

Recipe: Fig jam

This is a great tasting jam you can use for a number of things.  You could spread it on toast, but I'd rater have it alongside some nice cheese.  You could even warm it up a bit and put it on top of some ice cream for a simple and delicious summer dessert.  Fresh figs and honey make for a great pair, but you'll find that the white balsamic vinegar perfectly cuts through the sweetness for a beautiful balance. 

You will need:

10                        fresh figs
2 Tbs                   honey
2 Tbs                   sugar
2 Tbs                   white balsamic vinegar
2 Tbs                   water
to taste                 kosher salt

Method:

 - cut the stems off and dice the figs
 - put the figs in a pan with the water and slowly bring to a simmer
 - as the figs release water, stir and let the water cook off
 - when the figs are almost dry, add the sugar and honey and stir in
 - once the mixture is nice and thick, add the balsamic vinegar and simmer some more
 - season with kosher salt
 - remove from the heat and cool down
 - store in an airtight container and use as needed

Cookbook review: Touque! by Normand Laprise

Hot on the heels of the Canada Day celebrations, it seems the patriotic thing to do to talk about my latest favorite Canadian cookbook,  Toque!  by Normand Laprise.  The book is named after one of Quebec's most lauded and long-standing restaurants and Chef Laprise is credited with being at the forefront of Canadian cuisine with his incredible creativity and dedication to producing a quality product from start to finish.

We always hear talk of regional and seasonal cuisine now, but these are some of the key philosophical points the restaurant was founded on over 20 years ago.  Toque!  has recipes for dandelions, stinging nettles, and wild berries you may not have even heard about.  You wonder if they even use suppliers for some things or do they just head out into the open country and do a bit of foraging.  With their emphasis on quality organics, you can bet they have done a lot to encourage the local suppliers to patronize those small, local farmers who work so hard and with so much love to bring a great product to market.  Attitudes like this are what really help the often overlooked areas of our regional economies.

Creativity?  It's all here.  Plates are splashed with colours and textures that make you want to eat the pages.  Paints and chips of any vegetable and fruit you could hope for are possible and thrown around with the precision and seeming randomness of an abstract painting.  I saved the best part for last - it has been a long time since a cookbook has absolutely stunned me with a recipe.  If you are brave enough, Chef Laprise will walk you through making caramelized soil.  Soil!  SOIL!  CARAMELIZED DIRT!  I had to read it twice back to back.  It's pure insanity and by the end you'll want some.  Chef Laprise even goes as far as to guide to sourcing out the best dirt to start with - none of that store-bought crap, you need to head out into the woods for this.  Unbelievable.  CHECK IT OUT HERE.

note:  the link above is for the French edition

Recipe: Chicken tinga (pulled chicken in tomato sauce)

Tinga is a great Mexican dish that within its own boundaries is very versatile.  The pulled chicken meat has a great texture, and the tomato sauce can range from mild to rip-roaring hot depending on your treatment of the seasoning.  I would use canned whole tomatoes if possible for the puree - they usually have a better taste than other canned products.  If you happen to be making this in the prime of tomato season, you bet use fresh, but that's a short window of time, so this recipe goes with canned.  If you want to add some basic mirepoix to the simmering chicken thighs, go ahead, but you'll get some nice broth out of it regardless.

You will need:

1kg / 2.2lbs              boneless and skinless chicken thighs

1                               large white onion

300ml / 10fl oz         tomato puree

30ml / 2Tbs              chipotle puree (see Abuela's chipotle)

15ml / 1Tbs              brown sugar

4 cloves                    garlic 

5ml / 1tsp                 ground cumin

5ml / 1tsp                 smoked paprika

2.5ml / 1/2tsp           chili powder

to taste                      kosher salt

to taste                      black pepper

if needed                   vegetable oil

Method:

 - put the chicken thighs in a pot and cover with cold water - add mirepoix if you like

 - bring to a simmer and cook the chicken completely 

 - strain off the chicken and chill the broth

 - pull the chicken meat into shreds and set aside

 - julienne the onion, mince the garlic, and puree the tomatoes and chipotle

 - skim any chicken fat off the broth and use it to saute the onion - add oil needed

 - bring the onion to a golden brown and add the garlic

 - add the cumin, chili, and paprika and saute some more

 - add the brown sugar, tomato puree and chipotle puree and simmer

 - add the pulled chicken to the sauce and cook until the sauce just coats the chicken

 - season with salt and pepper

 - serve

Recipe: Rajas con Papas (poblanos in cream with potatoes)

dice and cook the potatoes

This dish is a bit of a fusion, but was a huge hit at my family reunion over the Canada Day weekend.  Carla, Diane and I were throwing a Mexican dinner and so had the task of selecting a few feature dishes from the huge repertoire of wonderful Mexican cuisine.  One of Carla's favorite dishes is chorizo con papas - kind of like a corned beef hash using chorizo instead.  One of my favorite dishes is rajas - poblanos cooked up in a cream sauce (seems a bit simple, but it gets me every time).  Since most Mexican dishes do have some meat involved, we were a bit stuck in our selection of vegetarian options - why not take the chorizo out of the potato equation, stretch the sauce of the rajas and use it to dress the potatoes like a warm potato salad?  Well, it turned out a stunner.  Vegetarian or not, everyone hit it hard.  The poblanos gave it a nice little zip, but it was mild enough that everyone could enjoy it - even Isabella at 11 months couldn't get enough!  If you want to just make rajas, simply use enough cream to make it saucy and serve.

peel and cut the poblanos

You will need:


6                           medium to large potatoes
3                           poblanos
1                           large onion
3 cloves                garlic
200ml / 6.8fl oz    cream
100ml / 3.4floz     sour cream
as needed             olive oil
as needed             kosher salt
as needed             black pepper

caramelize the onions

as needed             roasted corn



Method:


 - put a pot of water on to simmer
 - peel and dice the potatoes
 - simmer the potatoes in the water until almost cooked
 - strain the potatoes out of the water and let air-dry, cool, and set aside
 - roast corn on the grill, or pan-roast kernel corn in a pan and set aside
 - burn the poblanos, sweat, then peel (or use microwave - peeling peppers - microwave method)
 - cut the poblanos into thick strips and set aside - save any juice they have released
 - julienne the onion and saute in oil

add the cream and poblanos

 - when the onion is golden brown, mince the garlic and add it in
 - take the onions and garlic to a rich brown
 - deglaze the onions with the poblano juice, then add the cream
 - bring the cream to a simmer, then add the poblanos
 - simmer some more
 - add the sour cream, and season with salt and pepper
 - add in the potatoes and toss well in the sauce
 - check the seasoning and adjust if necessary
 - toss in the roasted corn and serve

add the potatoes and corn

Cookbook review: Elements of Taste by Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky

Today's cookbook review is not only a good source for great recipes, it's a fantastic reference book you can return to again and again and learn something new each time.  The title should give you a good indication of the book's direction, but don't underestimate it.  

Most of us know the four basic elements of taste - sweet, salty, sour and bitter.  The more eager students are jumping up and down in their seats saying "umami! umami!", referring to the more ambiguous concept that there is a sensation of taste that broadly recognizes that something is "tasty" - it is closely related to salt (while remaining distinct) and is what gives MSG its amazing power.  Well, Grasshopper, you have a bit to learn.  Gray Kunz and Peter Kaminsky will introduce you to fourteen elements of taste - fourteen!  And this is because they felt the original twenty-two they came up with might be a bit much for us to handle.  Sit down, hush up, and get ready to learn something.

Reading this book, you will learn to use language such as "pushing", "pulling", "punctuating", and "platform" as the new categories from which this multitude of taste sensations come from.  You will come away with a greater understanding of why certain foods and flavours are such good friends.  Even if you try to open the book and simply cook a recipe, inevitably you will end up reading a short passage about why the flavours work together, or how certain cooking techniques affect how flavours blend and come together.  This book will help you develop the kind of understanding you need to create memorable dishes.  Most people can follow a recipe, but much fewer have the ability to come up with something new, original, and hit the mark or very close to it on the first try.  Read this book, understand it, and apply it.  CHECK IT OUT HERE.

P.S.  This book is a great companion to the Flavour Bible.

Recipe: Smoked salt

Smoked salt brings an amazing effect to the right dish.   Just a sprinkle on a steak fresh off the grill gives it a real outdoorsy feel - even if you grill with propane.  A couple grains on top of a beautifully seared scallop or piece of fish and you just brought a whole new flavour to the plate.  You can use it like regular salt, but I usually keep it just for last garnishes so it doesn't get lost among the other flavours.  To this end, I recommend using Maldon salt - it has big, unmistakable pyramid-shaped crystals that leave no question as to where that taste of smoke came from.  Because the crystals are so big, you only need a few well placed ones to make a big addition to your dish.  Vegetable oil is a very optional addition.  I've used it because oil is a great vehicle for flavour and can boost the smokiness of the salt.  The key is to remember to use only a very small amount - the salt shouldn't be clumpy or appear wet, you should barely even notice it's there.  A good strategy is to keep some salt back, so if you think you may have added a bit too much, you can even things out by adding more salt.

You will need:

Maldon salt

cheesecloth

smoker

vegetable oil (very optional)

Method:

 - start the smoker early (on a cool setting) to get some smoke built up inside

 - line a smoker rack with cheesecloth - a few if you are processing a lot of salt

 - if using oil, put the salt in a bowl, add a TINY bit of oil and mix well

 - put a thin layer of salt on the cheesecloth

 - load the rack (or racks) into the smoker

 - smoke at least an hour - I like two

 - taste test - do this away from the smoker to be truly objective

 - smoke more if needed

 - remove the racks from the smoker and let cool

 - store in airtight containers

 - use as needed

Recipe: Malted souffle pancakes

I was really happy with the souffle pancakes, and was interested in making a variation.  Then I spotted the jar of Horlick's malt powder in the cupboard - perfect!  Since malt is based on wheat and barley, it lends itself to the form without stretching the imagination.  I figured why not use malt vinegar to sour the milk too?  The idea was to substitute a portion of the flour with the malt, but because Horlick's is a drink mix, I thought it might be prudent to add a bit extra to make sure the overall binding power of the dry mix was about the same.  The result was fluffy and delicious, and even tasted a bit nutritious.  It's not like having a malted milk in pancake form, rather the addition of the malted barley really deepened the overall flavour - and no, the malt vinegar didn't make them vinegary or anything like that, but it sure made the baking soda puff up!

You will need:

185ml / 3/4C                    milk

30 ml / 2Tbs                     malt vinegar

185ml / 3/4C                    flour

2                                       eggs

45ml / 3Tbs                      melted butter

125ml / 1/2C                    Horlick's malt drink mix

7.5ml / 1.5tsp                   baking powder

2.5ml / 1/2tsp                   baking soda

30ml / 2Tbs                      sugar

2.5ml / 1/2tsp                   vanilla

1.25ml / 1/4tsp                 kosher salt

Method:

 - bring all ingredients to room temperature

 - add the malt vinegar to the milk and set aside to sour

 - sift the flour, malt mix, baking powder, baking soda, and salt together

 - separate the eggs

 - melt hte butter and set aside

 - whisk the egg whites to a soft peak, sprinkle in half the sugar and bring to a medium firm peak

 - whisk the egg yolks and the rest of the sugar until pale

 - whisk in the vanilla

 - whisk in the melted butter

 - whisk in the sour milk

 - add the yolk mix to the dry and stir smooth

 - fold in the egg whites

 - fry in a hot skillet

Restaurant review: The Silver Skillet

While we were down in Atlanta, we decided a nice Father's Day treat would be to tuck into a good southern breakfast at a classic roadside diner - enter the Silver Skillet.  It was a cinch to find, standing defiantly tall (one story tall) amongst a sea of towers and new development, just past the I-85 on 14th.

The Silver Skillet has been a foundation in Atlanta for years and has that certain sense of history about it.  From the packed room, they've well earned the loyalty of their customers and don't need to periodically re-invent themselves - the food must speak for itself.  I found myself drawn to a yellowed sign advertising peach cobbler, thinking that if the sign has been there this long, the cobbler must be amazing - but first things first, we came for breakfast.

I had the signature southern breakfast with battered and fried centre-cut pork chops, eggs, grits and gravy.  The eggs came as eggs do, you can't ask for much more than that, but the pork chops really hit the spot with a purpose.  I have to admit, I don't normally do pork chops for breakfast, but it may be time to change my mind - the batter was delicious and crispy, and the pork was tender and juicy.  The grits were tasty and creamy, yet neutral enough to work with either the eggs or a splash of maple syrup depending on your mood.  You know they mean business when the gravy is its own thing - it was rich, thick and wake-you-up peppery - perfect for a breakfast chop.  The Skillet's biscuits almost stole the show - soft, tender and oh so cozy warm.  Where were the jams and butter?  In a napkin under the warm biscuits - considering I get pretty peeved at hard table butter, this small but simple detail really warmed my heart.  Had a taste of the buttermilk pancakes - pretty hard to go wrong there either.  Sadly, I couldn't get around to the cobbler, so it'll have to be next time.  Well done, Skillet, well done.

the southern breakfast

Restaurant review: Gladys Knight's Chicken and Waffles

We took a trip down south last week - way down, to Atlanta, Georgia.  I was told by my friend Jen that a trip to Gladys Knight's Chicken and Waffles was inevitable and mandatory.  I wasn't going to fight it - I love fried chicken, I love waffles, how can you go wrong?  I've often been curious about this pairing - while I'm all on board for each one separately, I'd never eaten them at the same time, and felt I should wait for the right opportunity just in case there was some hidden nuance I might miss if I just threw it together myself.

what you came for

Certainly, fried chicken is a passion in the south, and you will rarely be disappointed.  While the restaurant has a full and impressive menu, I had to go for the signature dish, and Gladys did not let me down.  Four hefty and delicious fried legs of chicken and a flawless waffle.  I'm not sure if I was enlightened as to the original purpose of the pairing, but it all came together like magic.  I had to order a corn muffin just because and it was just plain great.  To be honest, I would have liked to camp out a while and work my way through the menu, there was so much that was beyond tempting.  Others at our table had crispy fried catfish (fantastic), jerk and chipotle chicken spring rolls (ridiculous), sauteed corn with jalapenos (drool) and gravy smothered chicken (gaaaaaa).  We were so well fed we officially didn't get to dessert, but I insisted we get a sweet potato cheesecake to go to have later - so glad I did, it was simply great, even out of a box.

smothered chicken, corn and macaroni

The decor is what you might expect, memorabilia and photos from the career of one of soul music's great artists along with shots of some of the more notable visitors over the years.  Our meal was graciously watched over by Stevie Wonder, 50 Cent and George Clinton - not bad company.  

Pay Gladys a visit at 529 Peachtree st. NE, Atlanta, Georgia.  Give her a call at 1-404-874-9393.  Get there early as a line forms fast.

Recipe: Citrus salt - lemon

Specialty salts are a great way to add a lot of "wow" to a dish.  Some are easier to make than others, but making a citrus salt is a really good and easy way to get introduced to the concept.  In this example, I am using lemon and kosher salt, but you can switch both up.  If you switch the citrus fruit, keep in mind the size of the fruit and try to keep the overall amount of the zest the same.  Switching the salt can have a huge effect - the large pyramid shaped crystals in Maldon salt will really change the texture on the tongue, while a coloured salt like a Hawaiian red will have an interesting visual effect.

You will need:

250ml / 1C                     kosher salt
2                                     lemons

Method:

 - set the oven to 150F
 - using a microplane, zest the lemons
 - rub the zest into the salt well with your hands
 - spread the salt out on a baking sheet
 - place the salt in the oven for 30 minutes until completely dry

Recipe: Yogurt poppyseed dressing

Summer isn't often a time you are thinking of creamy salad dressings, but the yogurt and orange in this one makes it so refreshing.  It emulsifies nicely, but stays very light and works well on delicate greens.

You will need:

500ml / 2C                     Greek style yogurt

30ml / 2Tbs                    cream

60ml / 1/4C                    rice vinegar

60ml / 1/4C                    honey

60ml / 1/4C                    concentrated orange juice

5ml / 1tsp                       poppyseeds 

to taste                            kosher salt

as needed                       water

Method:

 - whisk the yogurt, cream and honey together

 - whisk in the vinegar and orange juice

 - add the poppyseeds

 - add water if you want a thinner dressing

 - season with kosher salt

 - use as needed

Recipe: Gomae dressing

When I go out for sushi, I love to get a side order of spinach gomae.  The slightly spicy mix of sesame and soy hits me just right, and my regular spot is generous with the dressing, so I also use it to dip my sushi.  Now that I have a recipe, I make it and use it however I please - despite the fact there is no oil in it, it works really well as a light salad dressing.  Remember to give it a good shake or stir before using it as the solids tend to collect at the bottom of the container.

You will need:

250ml / 1C                       mirin

250ml / 1C                       sake

250ml / 1C                       soy sauce

200ml / 6.8fl oz                sesame seeds

60ml / 1/4C                      wasabi

1 "knuckle"                      fresh ginger

Method:

 - put the mirin and sake in a pot, heat it, ignite it and burn off the alcohol, then cool

 - toast the sesame seeds, then cool

 - blend the sesame seeds fine in a blender

 - grate the ginger on a Microplane

 - put the wasabi, ginger, and sesame seeds in a bowl, then use the soy sauce and a whisk to make a paste

 - gradually whisk in the mirin and sake

 - use as needed

Cookbook review: Sweet Seasons by Richard Leach

This book was very inspirational for me when I was an apprentice, and remains one of my favorite reference book when my imagination needs a shot in the arm.  It's not just the quality of the work within the book, but also Richard Leach's background - I've always identified with his background as it has many similarities with my own.  He started as a regular cook, but pursued pastries on his own in order to be a more well-rounded chef which eventually led to working in the pastry department at Aureole and beyond into his career as one of the top pastry chefs in America and winning the James Beard award in 1997.

I find the look of his dishes are ever so slightly set apart from other pastry chefs in that there is often just that little bit more of a composition on the plate.  The plates resist descending into a mass of confusion, rather they maintain a sense of unity while presenting a lot visually - with some of the balancing acts going on, I expect there is a fair bit of pressure on the servers who handle the delivery to the table.  The complexity seems to reflect Chef Leach's savory background, and it translates very well.  It makes this book a great resource not only for recipes, but plating ideas.

The recipes of course are top notch.  As you would expect from someone at this level, facinating flavour combinations and great garnishes.  The pumpkin praline pie plate actually has an edible lantern on it!  Each dessert is divided into mini-chapters with easy to handle recipes for each of the supporting elements on the plate.  There is also a section in the back with some the basic recipes in a pastry shop along with some helpful technique tips.  The title of the book isn't frivolous either, and the dishes are divided according to the most appropriate time of year for serving - not that you would find many objections serving some of these selections year round.  CHECK IT OUT HERE.

Recipe: Chocolate banana lava cake

Not all lava cakes are equal, but this one is insanely good.  When I first did this recipe in Hong Kong, I was a bit burnt out on the idea - I had done them countless times in Vancouver and was ready to move on.  It was that subtle hint of banana that turned me.  The original recipe had quite a bit less, and it was already a big hit in our restaurant.  As I made batch after batch, I gradually upped the banana bit by bit, and the cakes just got better.  I stopped once the banana content equaled the chocolate, more or less on principle.  Beyond the progressively improved flavour, by upping the banana, I effectively reduced the overall flour content, which in turn made for a more tender product - I figured if you can have lava cake recipes with only trace amounts of flour, I had a bit of wiggle room to work with.  The cornstarch is an effective variation as well - you maintain a certain level of binding power with an inherently softer product.  You can get pretty aggressive with the molten centre as well - I was using a small hemisphere mold to make balls about the size of a large marble (they weighed in at about 16 grams each), which is pretty substantial when using a 4oz mold.  To help things stay where they should until baking, it is important to partially fill the molds then chill them - as the butter and chocolate set up, they will be able to support the weight of the chocolate centre.  Using the 4oz molds, this recipe would give me 10 - 12 portions and are best if cooked from raw within 3 - 4 days of making them.  We also used tin molds, so if you use ceramic, add a few minutes to the cooking time to allow the heat to work through the ceramic.

You will need:

200g / 7oz                      dark chocolate (70%) - plus more for the molten centres - up to 16g each

200g / 7oz                      bananas

110g / 3.9oz                   pastry flour

110g / 3.9oz                   cornstarch

40g / 1.4oz                     sugar

20g / 0.7oz                     butter - plus more for the cups

6                                     eggs

Method:

 - have your chocolate for the molten centres prepared and set aside

 - butter your molds well and keep refrigerated

 - melt the chocolate

 - puree the banana

 - sift the flour and cornstarch together

 - separate the eggs

 - whip the egg whites to medium peak, then beat in the sugar

 - beat the egg yolks pale

 - beat the butter into the yolks

 - beat in the banana puree

 - stir in the chocolate

 - fold in the whipped whites alternating with the flour and cornstarch blend

 - fill the cups 1/4 to 1/3 full, then chill to firm up the batter

 - add the chocolate for the molten centres and cover with batter

 - refrigerate

 - preheat the oven to 392F / 200C

 - bake 7 - 8 minutes, more if you have ceramic molds or a very big piece of chocolate in the middle

 - invert to unmold, and serve

Recipe: Souffle frittata

saute the garnish

Technically this is a souffle omelette, but honestly the eggs fluff up so much in the cooking that most attempts to fold the omelette don't work out too well (never mind rolling it).  That said, it makes a beautiful light and fluffy frittata.  It also happens to be a good way to stretch a few eggs a long way among more guests as the eggs already have volume by the time they hit the pan.  The trick here is to quickly yet gently mix the egg with the garnish, then leave it to avoid deflating the egg whites.  From there it is temperature control as flipping it can be a bit tricky - start fairly high heat, then turn it down.  If you have a broiler to brown the top a bit even better.

You will need:

4                         eggs

whisk the yolks

as needed           garnish - we used onion, peppers and spicy sausage here

as needed           cheese

to taste               kosher salt

to taste               black pepper

Method:

 - separate the eggs

 - start sauteing your garnish 

 - whisk the yolk with salt and pepper until pale

 - whisk the whites to a medium firm peak

 - fold the whites into the yolks

whisk the whites

 - add the eggs to the pan, stir to mix evenly then leave it

 - turn the heat to medium low and cover with a lid

 - grate the cheese, add to the top, and cover again to melt

 - once the frittata is mostly set, toast a bit under the broiler to brown the cheese

 - cut wedges and serve

fold together

add to the pan and top with cheese