Delicious potato gnocchi are always a welcome sight. Saute them for a nice outer crust - start them in butter so that by the time they are done the butter has started to brown. Serve them with something saucy so they can soak it up. It doesn't get much better. Gnocchi isn't hard to make, but there are a few tricks to make sure they are the best they can be.
- You don't want your dough to be too wet, which is why many people bake the potatoes rather than boil - also split the potatoes once they come out of the oven to let some steam evaporate. Professionals often have a baking sheet layered with pickling salt (very coarse) just for baking potatoes - your call - of course the salt can be saved for future baking.
- You want to always make your dough while the potatoes are still warm because the starch will get sticky as they cool down.
- To avoid over-activating the starch, always mix the dough with a bench scraper with a vertical chopping motion - resist the temptation to scrape the ingredients toward the middle, this isn't a dough to knead. By chopping the dough from the outside to the middle, you can keep things from spreading all over the counter.
- Cook the gnocchi in gently simmering water , not boiling - delicate dumplings are the most satisfying, but boiling water will tear them apart.
- Gnocchi is a pasta, so cool it like one - spread out on a lightly oiled sheet pan so the steam can evaporate.
This recipe is very versatile, so I've kept it fairly simple, but you can easily leave the chives out, substitute another herb, add some black pepper. Cheese is always welcome, but the harder varieties such as parmesan will affect the moisture content less and resist leaking out during cooking better. By the way, if you have some cream around, take the potato skins and put them in it - vacuum seal even better. Next time you make mashed potatoes, keep the skins involved right up until you strain your infused cream before adding to the potatoes - baked potato mash!
You will need:
2lbs / 900g russet potatoes
2 egg yolks - lightly whisked
1C / 125g flour (plus more for working with)
to taste kosher salt
pinch nutmeg
to taste chopped chives
Method:
- set your oven to 350F / 177C
- start some water on to simmer
- pierce the potatoes with a fork and bake about a hour - make sure they are well cooked
- cut the potatoes to let steam escape
- scoop the flesh out of the skins and pass through a ricer (or mash VERY gently)
- generously flour your board or counter top and set the potatoes down
- add the yolks and flour and start vertically chopping with a bench scraper
- if the dough seems a bit wet, add more flour
- season with salt, nutmeg, and add your chives (or other seasonings)
- when the dough is almost together, stop chopping - and bring it just together by hand
- take a small amount and test it in the simmering water - if it doesn't hold, it may need a little more bench work
- divide the dough into pieces and roll each one into logs about as thick as your thumb
- cut the gnocchi with the scraper - if you like, give them a dimple with your finger or roll them along the back of a fork for texture
- at this point, gnocchi freeze very well - freeze first on a sheet pan separately, then pack together
- when cooking, get the water at a simmer, season with salt and lightly oil a sheet pan
- cook the gnocchi a few at a time - when they float, they are cooked - take them out and spread out on the pan
- when they are all cooked, let them cool unless they are going right into a sauce
- if sauteing, a non-stick will help but a good hot pan will do too
- get the pan hot - medium high heat
- add a generous amount of butter
- add the gnocchi - give it a shake to make sure they don't stick, then let them colour
- as they colour, you can toss them to form a crust
- if you like, glaze them with more butter (yes), shallots and chives then drain on paper towel
- serve
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