Recipe: Red pepper caper aoli

This simple concoction makes a very nice plate garnish or dip on a seafood platter alongside or as an alternative to a cocktail sauce.  It is important to dry the capers well, then chop them very fine by hand - if you puree them, you will get a paste and it will interfere with the nice colour of the roasted peppers.

You will need:

250ml / 1C                peeled, seeded and pureed roasted red peppers
500ml / 2C                mayonnaise
30ml / 2Tbs              finely chopped capers
squeeze                     lemon juice
to taste                      kosher salt

Method:

 - puree the roasted peppers
 - mix the pepper puree into the mayonnaise well
 - drain and shop the capers fine
 - fold the capers into the mix
 - season with lemon juice and kosher salt
 - use as needed

Recipe: English toffee pudding

This recipe for English toffee pudding is always a hit.  It's soft, rich and has just a bit of a tang of lemon juice in it.  I generally steam them with very consistent results, but you could bake them as well.  They also are very accommodating if you want to pre-make them and re-steam or microwave them when you need them.  The sauce for the bottom of the dishes is really very flexible and I often am a little extra generous in my proportions so I can put more in each cup - this makes the puddings a little extra moist on top and really helps when you want to remove them from the dishes cleanly.  Garnish?  Caramel sauce, ice cream and a brandy snap - all these recipes are available in previous posts.  This will make 10 nice puddings.

You will need:

For the cups:  (be generous)

4Tbs                 butter

4Tbs                 brown sugar

4Tbs                 cream

1Tbs                 lemon juice

For the puddings:

160g                 brown sugar

250g                 unsalted butter (soft - very important)

15ml                 lemon juice

3                       eggs

125g (1C)     self-rising flour (if you don't have it, see my post about making your own)

 

Method:

- in a small saucepan, put all the ingredients for the cup sauce in and bring up to a simmer    

- pull off the heat and divide the sauce between the 10 cups

- put the cups in the fridge to set up hard

- put the sugar and soft butter in a mixer and beat pale with a whisk

- scrape the bowl, add the lemon juice, and beat more

- lightly whisk the 3 eggs and slowly add to the mix while beating

- scrape the bowl and continue to beat for 10 minutes

- make the self-rising flour if you need, then sift it

- add the flour to the mix and let the machine mix on the slowest speed until it is just incorporated

- use a spatula to give the bowl a scrape and the mix one last fold or two

- divide the mix between the cups

- tap the cups on the table to set the mix flat on the bottom

- use plastic wrap to cover each dish

- steam for 30 minutes

- remove from the steamer and take off the plastic wrap 

- serve immediately or cool, re-wrap and reheat later

Recipe: Apple chips

A nice crisp apple chip makes a great garnish for a variety of dishes, be they appetizers, mains or desserts.  I've seen a lot of methods to make apple chips, but many of them leave a lot to be desired.  If you don't peel the apples, it is almost impossible to keep them from wrinkling up, so I always do to make sure the chips stay flat.  There is no need for the chips to be brown either - some methods involve brushing the chips with lemon juice and dusting with icing sugar, but I find that is hit or miss for preventing oxidization.  By submerging the chips in a warm syrup, you give the surface the slightest bit of a cook and make oxidization impossible and will get pure white chips.  By letting the chips sit in the syrup a few minutes, you also allow the chips to absorb the syrup, and then during the dehydration process, the sugar will re-crystallize and the chips will have a terrific snap to them.

You will need:

apples
simple syrup
a mandolin slicer
a silicone mat
pan spray

Method:

 - make the simple syrup in a wide bottom pan and keep it just below a simmer
 - give the silicone mat a light dusting of pan spray
 - peel the apples
 - slice the apples thinly on a mandolin
 - pull the syrup of the heat
 - lay the apple slices one by one into the syrup and submerge completely
 - wait about 5 minutes so the slices can get a slight surface cook and absorb the syrup
 - gently pull the slices from the syrup, drain, and lay on the silicone mat
 - dehydrate at 40C / 104F or in an oven at the lowest possible setting with the door cracked
 - once the chips are dry and crisp, allow to cool down
 - carefully remove the chips from the mat and store in an airtight container
 - use as needed

Product review: Starbucks Via instant coffee

At times, especially with desserts, a recipe calls for coffee.  I don't like how depending on how you brew your coffee the results in the recipe can change.  You also need to account for the water content in the coffee used, and while the coffee may be strong, in effect you are still diluting the mixture.  This is where using an instant coffee can work well - you add the coffee flavour and omit the water.  The problem now is that most instant coffee is crap.  

Starbucks Via is an exception.  Served just as coffee, you may not even notice a difference with fresh brewed.  Now to switch to cooking - let's take a custard as an example.  Say you know the perfect ratio of yolks to cream for the texture you want, if you want to make a coffee custard, you now have to do some fancy footwork to account for the added coffee.  If you use Via, you can make your custard as usual, then dissolve the coffee into the custard to the flavour you like (it dissolves beautifully) with virtually no effect on the final structure.  An added bonus with respect to custards, Via is less acidic and less likely to break the emulsion (I've seen it happen using espresso).   

I still have my regular coffee for drinking at home, but like to keep at least a few packs of Via around  for cooking.  You can get it sent straight to you home if you like.  CHECK IT OUT HERE.

Recipe: Pizza dough

Who doesn't like pizza?  It's one of the most loved foods around and even better if you make it yourself.  Homemade pizza also makes for a great interactive theme party - everybody will show up, everyone will want to try their hand at the dough, and if you have a good selection of toppings, there's no telling what crazy and delicious concoctions will result.  My brother-in-law Luis and I teamed p on this for a party and it was a roaring success - at one point we had a bacalao pizza, and the last one of the night had cheese rolled into the outer crust.  What I really like about this dough is that you can have a thicker crust if you like, but if you want to have a thin crust, you can roll this out super thin, and once it bakes up, as long as you don't have a ridiculous amount of toppings, the crust will hold straight without flopping (a major flaw in many thin crust pizzas).  This recipe is the basic dough - by all means take the liberty of adding in some fresh chopped herbs or cracked pepper to really jazz it up.  We mixed this up old school on the table, but you can use a mixer if you want to speed things up.

You will need:

500g                   flour (plus some for bench work)

33g                     fresh yeast (or 11g active dry)

10g                     sugar

5g                       salt

30ml                   olive oil

270ml                 warm water

Method:

 - bloom the yeast in the warm water with a bit of the sugar

 - mix the flour, salt and the rest of the sugar

 - make a well on the table with the flour

 - add the oil and the bloomed yeast water into the well

 - using your fingers and moving in a circular motion, start swirling the liquid

 - gradually expand the circle to incorporate the flour

 - once all the flour is incorporated, knead the dough

 - add any flour necessary to get the dough to a smooth ball

 - place in a bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let proof to double the size

 - punch down the dough, and depending on the size of pizza and crust thickness, cut into 2, 3, or 4

 - roll the balls and let proof again

 - lightly oil your pizza pan

 - roll out your dough to the desired size and thickness

 - transfer to the pan

 - dock the dough  

 - dress it up

 - bake at 350F - 400F depending on thickness (higher temperature for thin) for about 10 - 15 minutes

 - dig in

pepperoni stuffed crust pizza

Recipe: Agua de avena (oatmeal water)

Another surprisingly refreshing drink I came across in Mexico was agua de avena, or oatmeal water.  I expected something similar to a horchata, but it wasn't milky at all - it was closer to a lime-aide and really delicious.  The oatmeal gives it a really hearty character, which in turn is mellowed by a bit of sugar, then made refreshing with lime juice.  What's more is that between the oatmeal and the lime juice, you're getting a nice bit of nutrition too.

You will need:

2oz / 57g / 1/2C          rolled oats
1/2C                            sugar (or to taste)
1qt / 1L                       water
1                                  lime (or to taste)

Method:

 - bring the sugar and water up to a boil
 - drop in the oats, cover and let sit for an hour
 - strain
 - chill completely
 - serve with fresh lie juice

Restaurant review: El Parian

I'm not sure if this really counts as a restaurant review or cantina review, but I'm not starting a new category - you can get food and drink here and that's enough.  Our hosts in Guadalajara said we had to come here for a couple principle reasons - it's one of the best places to see Mariachis and drink tequila (two of the three things you MUST do in Guadalajara), and it's the largest cantina in the world - ok, I'm intrigued.  Set in a grand old building with a garden courtyard in the Tlaquepaque area of the city, El Parian is actually a cluster of cantinas all co-operating as one.  

Depending on the individual section you sit in, the food is "standard" for Guadalajara - which means it is pretty great for bar food anywhere else in the world.  What stands out will be the very impressive menu of tequilas.  Think Mexico is all cheap?  Work out the exchange on some of the premium varieties on the bottom of the list.

The setting is fantastic, open air, trees, and a great building in itself.  The entertainment is just what you came for, roving bands of mariachis for hire - at times four or five playing simultaneously around the courtyard.  A few times a day, the central bandstand fires up with the main band along with a nice review of regional music and dance from around the country - you came for a taste of culture right?  Sure, on the surface, it seems a bit touristy, but with good friends, tequila and mariachis you can't help but have a great time.  Go to the main plaza in Tlaquepaque and it's just southeast - look for the big sculpture of the mariachi, and it's the big building behind.

Recipe: Tejuino (fermented corn drink)

As we were enjoying our travels in the state of Jalisco, we kept coming across people selling tejuino - a delicious and refresing drink made from masa and seasoned with lime juice and a inch of salt.  It seemed a bit of a curious combination for a drink at first, but after we had tried it, we were game every time.  It is made with the same masa used for tortillas and tamales, but if that's a bit tricky for you to get, you can substitute cornmeal, but you will want to strain it as it is a lot coarser than masa.  If you can't get piloncillo, you can more or less substitute by weight with brown sugar, but pull back a bit and add a touch of molasses. Tejuino also comes in either femented or fresh forms.  Fresh can be ready in a few hours, but the fermented version needs up to three or four days at room temperaure to be ready (depending on your local climate).  A nice serving variation is to make a lime zest and chili salt to rim your glasses with.

You will need:

1kg                corn masa

1kg                piloncillo

3L                 water (at least)

3                    limes (at least)

to taste          kosher salt

Method:

 - put the piloncillo in a pot with the water and heat to melt

 - mix the masa with the syrup (you can use a blender if it's easier)

 - juice two of the limes and add to the mix

 - if fermenting, cover with a cloth and leave at room temperature for 3 to 4 days, then refrigerate

 - if serving fresh, cool the mix down, then transfer to the fridge and let it develop at least a few hours
 - with both versions, remove from the fridge and add water if you want a thinner consistency
 - season with fresh lime juice and salt
 - serve over ice in a lime and chili salt rimmed glass (optional)

Restaurant review: La Chata (Guadalajara)

So there we were in Guadalajara, the clock is ticking, we need to eat a Torta Ahogada, so where do we go?  Really, you can pretty much get one almost anywhere here, but Ismael suggested we go to La Chata to get our fix.  Conveniently located near the centro historico, it was an easy stop for lunch after a nice walk around town.  This isn't a small place, but they keep it packed and maintain a line out the sidewalk at most times - must be pretty good.  What especially touched my heart was being offered a complimentary beer (not some pansy-ass virgin cocktail) once we got to the indoor section of the line.  La chata is known as well for pozole and platillo jaliscence (a fried chicken dish), but we came for the tortas.

What is a torta ahogada?  It translates to "drowned sandwich", reminiscent of a pambazo, but mostly for the fact that the sauce is on the outside of the bread.  Done properly, there is a specific type of crusty bread used (birote) that holds up well to being sauced.  Inside is sliced or chopped roast pork (usually leg), then the whole thing is smothered in a spicy sauce.  La Chata's sauce is available in a toned down version probably better suited to visitors, but if you want you can get the "original" sauce (we drizzled some over the top of our tortas) for the real experience - be warned, it will rip your face off.  Depending on your sense of public cleanliness, this is most likely a knife and forker to eat.

Get your sandwich on.  Or whatever you fancy.  Find La Chata at Avenue Corona 126.

yea baby!

Culinary tourism: Guadalajara

On our way back to Mexico City, we made a stop in Guadalajara to have a look around and spend some time with a friend who used to live in Vancouver.  There are a few expressions that keep popping up with reference to Guadalajara - one is that to know Guadalajara is to know Mexico.  This isn't as arrogant as it sounds, rather a case of wholesome pride in your hometown - politically, Guadalajara has figured very prominently throughout Mexico's history, and culturally, Guadalajara has produced some of those things that have come to symbolize Mexico to the rest of the world - sombreros, mariachis, the Mexican hat dance, and the almighty tequila.  This leads to the other expression, which is that if you go to Guadalajara, you MUST listen to mariachis, drink tequila, and eat a torta ahogada (more on that to come) - well, if I have to I guess I will, I don't want anyone to get upset.

As for eating in general in Guadalajara, it seems pretty clear to me that you might need a year or two to really find all the gems here.  The good news is that if you are only here for a short stay, the odds of you stumbling upon a great meal are outstanding.  There are countless restaurants and cafes set up in beautiful colonial buildings - as a big fan of architecture, this is a giant bonus to a nice meal.

Of course, to sample the street food is to really get into it.  From a Canadian background, I've always been impressed at the variety of meats that you'll find offered as tacos in Mexico (lending to my theory that tacos, chapatis, pitas and all forms of flatbread worldwide are possibly the most perfect food).  Guadalajara seems to have taken things even further.  I've had tacos of cheeks, tripe, tendon, tongue, eyeball, heart, crickets, brain, and other more common cuts.  What first caught my eye in Guadalajara was a stand offering tacos de labio - lips!  By now it seems kind of obvious, but at that point I had never come across it in all my visits to Mexico.  We were actually doing quite a bit of eating while sightseeing, and I kept seeing these lip tacos offered after I had just eaten.  It became a mission that before we left the city, I had to leave room for one.  Finally, on our last night, our friend Ismael took us to his local guy, and lip tacos was only getting started!  I had my lip tacos (tender, juicy, and a bit deliciously fatty) and one of what translates to "the back of the tongue" (as you might expect, very similar to tongue and no less tasty).  Along with the usual large variety of meats on the menu were also tacos of ear, tail, nose, udder, lung and horn - horn!  How do you even do that?  I was fighting a bit of a cold, so I had to be satisfied that I completed my quest for the lips, but cudos buddy!  All these chefs up north bragging about "nose to tail" cooking still have a bit to learn.  Go Guadalajara!  Viva!