Recipe: Cider braised pork belly - sous-vide and traditional

Soft bacon!  Yay!  It's nice to see that current health trends haven't been able to stop pork belly from its steady rise in popularity in recent years.  Maybe it's reactionary - you can only take so much wheatgrass and skim milk before you cross back over to the dark side.  The only time I've ever seen belly struggle on a menu was when it was listed as a main course - come on, as much as people love it, they generally  want to indulge, not have a coronary.  For me, an appetizer is a perfect size - it'll send you into a Homer Simpson moment and leave you wanting more.  If Carla and I go to a restaurant and there's belly and foie appetizers, we'll probably get one of each and share (we never split a plate - that's just wrong - we just eat half and trade plates).  When I was working in Hong Kong, I had a hard time putting this on the menu because I was told it wouldn't sell because belly is considered a "cheap meat".  Eventually I succeeded and it was popular - I also made it less "cheap" by dousing it in Calvados brandy.  You might naturally assume an appropriate side would be sauteed or smoked apples - you would be right.  A little slow braised leek would go nice too.  As for sous-vide, your cooking time and temperature combination can vary from about 12 hours (at 83C / 181.5F) to a couple days (at 61C / 142F).  We'll let these babies go somewhere in the middle at 24 hours at 71C / 160F.

For the brine, you will need:

1L / 1qt           water

50 g / 1.75 oz  kosher salt

10                    black peppercorns

5                      sprigs thyme

2                      sprigs tarragon

1                      sprig rosemary

1                      bay leaf

1kg / 2.2 lbs    pork belly

cheesecloth

Method:  

 - combine the water salt and peppercorns and bring up to a simmer

 - turn off the heat and add the herbs

 - cool completely

 - wrap the belly in the cheesecloth

 - lay some of the herbs down in a container almost the same size as the belly

 - lay the belly down and cover with the rest of the herbs

 - cover with the brine and set in the fridge for a day

For the marinade, you will need:

Calvados apple brandy

brown sugar

Method:

 - rinse the brine off the belly and pat dry

 - splash it with Calvados and sprinkle with brown sugar - rub it in and rest a few hours

For the braise, you will need:

1                   onion, chopped

1                   stalk celery, chopped

1                   green apple, peeled and cored

250ml / 1C   apple cider

250ml / 1C   apple juice 

Method:

 - if braising traditionally, set oven to 275F / 180C - if sous-vide, set bath at 160F / 71C

 - brush off any excess sugar

 - decide if you want crispy or soft crust - if soft, pat dry and sear the belly in a pan on all sides till golden, remove and set aside

 -  saute onion, celery and apple till golden

 - deglaze with cider and slightly reduce

Note for sous-vide:  at this point, add the apple juice, reduce more, then cool down the braising liquid.  When it is cold, put the belly, vegetables and liquid in the bag (make sure the vegetables are on the sides and the top an bottom of the belly are clear) and seal on a loose setting and set in the bath for 24 hours.  When done, remove from bath, start the chilling process by shocking in ice water, then transfer to the fridge, cover with a sheet pan and place a weight on it (this is why the vegetables are on the sides)  and let it cool completely.  Pick up the method at portioning stage.

 - add apple juice and bring up to a low simmer

 - return the belly to the broth - add a little water if needed
 - cover and place in oven 3-4 hours until meaty side is soft
 - remove and cool down in liquid
 - set belly aside and cut your portions (some choose to remove the skin here)
 - strain liquid and remove fat
 - reduce liquid to a loose glaze
 - if serving soft, reheat in the glaze
 - if serving crispy, score and sear skin side and sauce with the glaze