Recipe: Puffed couscous

It has been said that every dish needs something crispy.  It helps keep things interesting.  The next challenge then is to come up with interesting crispy things.  Puffed couscous fits the bill pretty well - it's super crispy, can be seasoned just about any way you want, and can either be scattered around the plate or contained within an element, for example a crispy layer in a crab Napoleon.  Seeing as they looked like miniature Corn-pops, I tossed a batch in cinnamon sugar, then added some milk to make the world's smallest bowl of breakfast cereal - how's that for an unexpected dessert garnish?  This works much in the same way that I did the puffed rice, only using Israeli couscous.  Get the biggest ones you can get for best effect.  You can also flavour the cooking water to get the seasoning right into the couscous.

You will need:

Israeli couscous (250ml /1C is a good start)

water

seasoning

Method:

 - put the couscous in a pan of water and slowly bring to a simmer (not a boil)

 - let simmer about half an hour - you want to basically overcook it

 - strain and rinse in cold water to keep them from sticking together

 - give a paper lined sheet pan a light spray with pan spray

 - spread the couscous out evenly

 - dry completely - at this point the couscous can be stored well in a container

 - fry in a fine mesh strainer in hot oil until they puff

 - drain on paper

 - season as desired

 - use as needed

world's smallest bowl of cereal

Recipe: Maple pumpernickel microwave cakes

The technique on these cakes is really fun, but the magic is in how incredibly tasty they are.  The fact that the flavour is pumpernickel makes it adaptable as a bread item on a savory plate, while the sheer dark and sweet deliciousness makes it work as well as a dessert.  Pair these up with smoked salmon and a cream cheese aoli one day, then macerated cherries and vanilla ice cream the next - it all works.

You will need:

160g / 5.6oz                        eggs (about 3)
80g / 2.8oz                          unsalted butter
70g / 2.5oz                          flour
50g / 1.8oz                          sugar
25g / 0.9oz                          molasses
25g / 0.9oz                          maple syrup
10g / 0.4oz                          cocoa powder
3g / 0.1oz                            ground caraway

Method:

 - put all ingredients into a bar blender and mix very well
 - strain through a chinois into an iSi gun
 - charge well - 2 for a 500ml / 2C canister, or 4 for a 1L / 1qt canister
 - shake well
 - punch a few holes in the bottom of a few 500ml / 2C plastic tubs
 - spray the mix into the tub until about the halfway mark
 - microwave for 45 seconds to a minute, depending on the power of your microwave
 - turn the tub upside down to cool and aerate (the holes allow steam to escape)
 - once cool, run a knife around the edge to loosen and remove
 - serve, or store in an airtight container for service later (these are best served the same day)

Recipe: Granola

Granola has always been tops for me when it comes to breakfast cereals.  My parents were never big on sugar cereals, so at an early age I was well acquainted with a range of whole wheat cereals, oatmeal, Grape-nuts, and granolas, my favorite being the Harvest Crunch with dried apple.  Even better is making your own, picking your own mix of grains, fruits and nuts.  You also have control over what gets added to your mix to make sure it's actually as healthy for you as it's supposed to be.  A shocking number of store bought granolas are really high in sugar content.  Even scarier is that sometimes you need to search hard for a brand that does not use hydrogenated fat.  Not to get into it too much here, but give me full-fat butter and animal fats before that manufactured stuff - your body just does not know what to do with it.  Anyway, get some milk ready and let's make some cereal.

You will need:  

1L / 1qt                oats

1L / 1qt                mixed nuts - almonds

                                               - hazelnuts 

                                               - pecans

                                               - walnuts

                                               - large flake coconut

                                               - etc.

500ml / 2C           mixed dry fruits - cranberries

                                                        - blueberries

                                                        - apples

                                                        - raisins

                                                        - etc.

375ml /1.5C         unsalted butter

375ml / 1.5C        brown sugar or honey

Method:

 - preheat the oven to 300F / 149C

 - if you like, roughly chop the larger nuts

 - melt the butter together with the brown sugar (or honey)

 - mix all the nuts with the oats (leave the fruit out)

 - toss the mix with the sweetened butter

 - spread the mix out on paper lined sheet pans and toast until golden, stirring occasionally

 - remove from the oven and cool completely

 - add the mixed fruit and mix well

 - store in airtight containers 

 - eat at will

Recipe: Souffle pancakes

sift the dry

 We were messing around with breakfast this weekend.  I managed to blend a few pancake recipes into one very nice one on Saturday.  Then I was thinking about how it might be better.  Not wanting to mess with a good formula, it seemed a good thought to take a page out of the old omelette book and souffle the pancakes - no messing with the formula, just adding a step in dealing with the eggs.  If you don't want to go the trouble, the recipe works just fine as a regular mixer - you can even get away with one egg if that's all you have, but for souffle, you definitely want that extra elevation.  As for the soured milk, some recipes also use vinegar, but more importantly, it's taking into account that you probably won't have buttermilk around the moment you are inspired to make pancakes and a trip to the store might kill it.  If you are stocked, by all means substitute the buttermilk right across with the milk - cut back the acid though as the buttermilk will have some, but keeping a little will help the baking soda go to work.  Another nice trick is to sprinkle a little brown sugar over the pancake right after you drop it in the pan so when to flip it, the sugar will caramelize and have an extra delicious crust.  Enjoy!

whip the whites

You will need:

250ml / 1C             flour
185ml / 3/4C          milk
2                             eggs
45ml / 3Tbs           melted butter
30ml / 2Tbs           lemon or lime juice
30ml / 2Tbs           sugar
7.5ml / 1.5tsp        baking powder
2.5ml / 1/2tsp        vanilla or vanilla paste
2.5ml / 1/2tsp        baking soda
1.25ml / 1/4tsp      kosher salt

mix the wet

Method:

 - have all ingredients at room temperature
 - add the lemon or lime juice to the milk and set aside to sour
 - sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt together
 - separate the eggs
 - melt the butter and set aside
 - whisk the whites to a soft peak, sprinkle in half the sugar and whisk to a medium firm peak
 - add the other half of the sugar to the egg yolks and whisk pale
 - whisk in the vanilla
 - whisk in the butter
 - whisk in the soured milk
 - using the whisk, stir the wet mix into the dry mix

mix the wet and dry and fold in the whites

 - fold in the whites
 - fry in a hot skillet

Recipe: Ultimate hamburger patties - or meatballs

The sunshine brings out the barbeques, which in turn brings out the burgers.  As we've explored in the Ultimate Burger Series, by investigating the fixings, and even the buns used, some amazing burgers result.  As with everything, a solid foundation is a very good place to start, so it's about time we got around to a rock solid burger patty - or as it says in the title, this recipe makes dynamite meatballs.  Depending on the rest of the burger, or your mood that day, you may add a few more spices, but this is a very good starting point that can stand on its own with the basic toppings on a moment's notice.  This is the kind of recipe you can make a large number of patties and store a few in the freezer for later (make sure you have one or two fresh though).  Carla and I even have one of those goofy plastic burger presses with the teflon dividers - they are gold for serious burger production - you may even know someone with one tucked away in the back of a tupperware cupboard - see if you can adopt it and use it.

When buying the meat, tough cuts have the best flavour.  This recipe uses chuck and brisket as an example, but you can get creative.  If you have a meat grinder, you can get even more creative.  Feed the meat in with the grain lined up so the grinder cuts across it for the most tenderizing effect.  It may seem counter-intuitive to buy extra lean meat, then add in pork fat, but fat carries flavour and pork fat is delicious.  By switching the animal, you also add a complexity to the flavour beyond going with pure cow.  If you have pork issues, no problem, just go with a regular or lean meat instead of the extra lean.  As an additional note, even though there is salt and pepper in the recipe, I still season the patties before grilling for that extra surface flavour.

You will need:

500g / 1.1lbs              extra lean ground chuck

500g / 1.1lbs              extra lean ground brisket

200g / 7oz                  ground pork fat

200g / 7oz                  onion

30g / 1oz                    confit garlic - drained of oil (see post "Garlic oil / roasted garlic vs confit garlic)

10ml / 2tsp                 Dijon mustard

5ml / 1tsp                   Worcestershire sauce

11g / 0.4oz                 kosher salt

9g / 0.3oz                   black pepper

6g / 0.2oz                   smoked paprika

6g / 0.2oz                   cumin

Method:

 - grind the meat and fat if necessary

 - take half of the meat and cold smoke it for 1 hour

 - puree the onion with the confit garlic

 - if working by hand, add all the ingredients and mix until meat gets "sausagey"  and sticks together well

 - if using a mixer, add all ingredients into a bowl with a paddle and mix on slow speed for 20 seconds

 - raise the speed to mid and mix another minute and check the texture

 - take a small amount, make a mini patty, cook it up and check the taste and texture

 - adjust seasonings and mix more if necessary

 - form patties (170g / 6oz or 227g / 8oz are good sizes)

 - start grillin!

Foie gras - "Oh, the humanity!"

Foie gras has a real knack for stirring up a hornet's nest of trouble, especially out here on the West coast.  Since the last post, I thought I might be able to help those who love foie gras but hate the hate.  I'm not even going to venture into the issue of animals for consumption, that's your business, and this discussion is going on the assumption that if you are preparing foie gras, you must be ok with eating animals.

I love foie gras, and I love animals - I even love some animals I love to eat.  When Carla and I were in Peru, we loved running into the gentle and loveable alpacas, hanging out with them and petting them.  If I saw alpaca on the menu in a restaurant, no question I was going to order it - they are way too delicious and just not available at home.  So where does this leave my morality?  Well, the way I see it, if an animal is going to give its life for our consumption, the least we can do is treat it nicely while it's alive, and slaughter it when the time comes with a little compassion - besides, the adrenalin that is released when an animal realizes the end is near doesn't taste good and compromises the texture of the meat.  I always put a lobster to sleep before doing the deed - it's just good cooking.  In this respect, I am in full agreement with those that oppose the traditional force feed method of raising the geese for foie gras, what with the tiny cages, funnels and "acceptable" numbers of blown out gullets.  But there is an alternative.

True Kobe beef cattle are regularly checked by physicians, generally coddled and treated like one of the family.  There is a farmer on Vancouver Island known for having his Berkshire pigs follow him about he property as he goes about his daily business - you can imagine they must be shown a little respect once their time comes.  More and more geese farmers are following a similar tactic.  The geese have a free reign to move about the farm and are treated to a non- stop buffet of nutritious food they love.  Sure they overeat, that's the point isn't it?  The difference is as far as they are concerned, their life (albeit shortened) is one of abundance.  As you might guess, the livers produced are smaller, but this also has a way of servicing the consumer.

Ideally, you would always research your farmers before you buy foie gras, but sometimes you might just have to take a stab at it.  It has been observed that in cases of voluntary overeating, goose livers max out around the 500 gram mark - some restaurants have actually taken the policy of not accepting any livers larger than that.  If you are comparing suppliers, see if one is predominantly 500 grams and below, as opposed to others that tend to be 750 grams and up.  If you have no other information available, go with the smaller lobes.  Have a heart, and vote with your wallet.

Recipe: Foie gras parfait (sous vide)

A well made foie gras parfait is a beautiful sight, and even nicer to eat.  There are a few good ways to make it, but the techniques differ a fair bit, so I will keep them separated.  This is the sous vide method I have used.  Obviously this method requires a bit of equipment, but the results are golden.  One thing to note is that you still use a terrine mold, so you will need vacuum bags that are big enough to hold the mold and still seal.  If the recipe is too large for a single mold you have on hand, you can use two and seal each one separately.  If you have only one mold, you can cook the other half after unmolding the first, but you will want to vacuum seal the uncooked parfait in the interim to avoid oxidization.  You can also use this recipe with chicken livers - it's a simple one for one substitution.

Depending on your usage - basically, will you serve the entire terrine in one meal - you may opt to coat the finished and unmolded terrine with a seasoned butter, which will help defend against oxidization (and is delicious).  The technique is simply to put the finished parfait on parchment paper in the freezer until the outside is extremely cold.  Then take some very soft (but not separated) butter, season it (olive oil, herbs, salt and pepper), and paint it on in a very thin layer with a pastry brush.  You can smooth it out with a palette knife or leave it rustic.  Then, after the cold terrine has set the butter, carefully roll it over on the parchment paper and paint the underside of the terrine.  It can then be stored in the fridge until service, or once the butter is fully set, vacuum sealed (on a loose setting) and stored longer - it even freezes well if you handle it gently and don't rush the thaw.

You will need:

500g / 17.6oz                    foie gras

500g / 17.6oz                    unsalted butter

4                                        eggs

100ml / 3.4fl oz                 Madeira wine

100ml / 3.4fl oz                 Port wine

3                                        shallots

1 clove                              garlic
1                                        bay leaf
3 sprigs                             thyme
splash                                brandy
to taste                              kosher salt
pinch                                 nitrate (optional)

Method:

 - seal the foie, eggs and butter in separate bags and put in warm (not hot) water - this aids emulsification
 - set an oven with a generous water bath for 260F / 127C
 - line a terrine mold with parchment paper (use pan spray to help it stick to the sides) and leave flaps to cover the top
 - chop the shallot, smash the garlic, and put them in a saucepan with the herbs and two wines
 - reduce the wines to almost dry, then strain and set aside
 - put the foie gras in a food processor and pulse to puree
 - add the eggs and incorporate
 - add the butter and incorporate
 - add the reduction and brandy and season with salt
 - mix in the nitrate - this helps with that charcuterie "pink" look
 - strain the mix through a chinois, fill the mold, and fold the top flaps over
 - place the mold in a vacuum bag and seal tight (carfeful it's not so tight it squishes the parfait)
 - place the parfait in the water bath and cook for about 45 minutes to an hour (depending on mold size)
 - transfer the parfait to an ice bath and cool completely
 - open the bag and remove the parfait
 - use a palette knife to loosen the paper from the mold and turn the parfait out
 - if coating with butter, chill in the freezer
 - prepare your delicious, very soft seasoned butter
 - paint your terrine on all sides and set aside in the fridge
 - use a hot, wet knife to slice portions
 - serve cold - brioche and jelly make for nice accompaniments

Recipe: Cedar jelly

This jelly is surprisingly tasty and very West Coast.  Make sure you are picking your cedar tips from the tender tips as they are the youngest and most fragrant part of the branch.  As well, if you use the branch further down the stem, you will be steeping the bark in the water and as you might expect, get a far more woody flavour than you are probably going for.  While cedars have a nice aroma and are quite easy to find, if you are ambitious, keep an eye out for grand firs in the forest - they are often very tall, and have a grey blistered bark on them.  The blisters are pockets of fragrant grapefruit smelling sap - open one up to see.  The tips of these branches also have that grapefruit character and are a nice alternative to the cedar.

This recipe is intended to be used on a hot plate, thus the use of agar agar.  If you are using the jelly on a cold plate, you may prefer the softer texture of 100% gelatin and go with a ratio in the neighborhood of 6 sheets for every 2 cups of liquid.

You will need:

750ml / 3C                cedar tips
500ml / 2C                water
250ml / 1C                sugar
1                                lemon - juiced
10g / 0.4oz                agar agar
1 sheet                       gelatin

Method:

 - put the sugar and water together and bring to a simmer
 - turn off the heat and add the lemon juice and cedar tips
 - allow to cool (strain out the cedar tips early if you find the tea is strong enough)
 - strain the tea
 - whisk the agar into a small amount of the tea to incorporate
 - whisk in the rest of the tea
 - soak the gelatin, drain and set aside
 - bring the tea with the agar to a simmer
 - melt in the gelatin
 - pour into the vessel you want to set it in
 - cool completely
 - cut and use as desired

Cookbook review: Indulge by Claire Clark

This is a terrific pastry book that fits nicely into the French Laundry and Bouchon series - it's not written by Thomas Keller, rather Claire Clark, who put this book out as the reigning pastry chef of none other than the French Laundry.  Right away, you can guess the quality of the work inside - everything is superbly polished, tested and you can bet delicious.

While it is related by blood to the French Laundry, Chef Clark's book is closer in approachability to the Bouchon volumes.  While everything is top quality, it comes off as manageable to cooks other than those immersed in the industry.  She some areas she covers classics and standards such as creme puffs, pavlovas, and scones, then in other areas pushes your limits and brings some surprising approaches to desserts.  The green tea and jasmine delice is so tempting, while the vacherin Mont-Blanc is simultaneously strange and beautiful.  Indulge is also packed with helpful tips on techniques to improve your knowledge and problem solving in the kitchen.  Get a copy of this book and get ready to drool.  CHECK IT OUT HERE.

Recipe: Prawn crackers

Prawn crackers are great on their own, but I like to break them into random shapes and use them as a garnish on a dish.  They are very easy to make, but they do take some time to dehydrate enough to fry.  Some methods have you rolling big logs, then cooking them and cutting slices to dry out.  This will give you regular shapes to your chips, but it also takes more time in the cooking stage and a bit of effort in the cutting stage.  If you are ok with random shapes, this method quickens the cooking and really simplifies the cutting, or even eliminates it altogether.  Ideally you want to use a vacuum sealer, but you can use a sturdy plastic bag, press the air out after rolling and seal really well with waterproof tape.  As long as you keep your ratio of prawn meat to tapioca flour right, you can size this recipe to what you have on hand - for that reason, the focus here is on technique over specific amounts.  The prawn stock is really optional - it can help make your puree smooth and add some flavour, but you will want to compensate accordingly by increasing the tapioca flour.  Make sure you use good quality prawns for a better result and so you can check your seasoning without fear.

You will need:

one part                                 peeled and deveined fresh and raw prawn meat

as needed (and optional)       prawn stock

one part                                 tapioca flour (plus more if you use stock)

to taste                                   sea salt

to taste                                   pepper (white if you want a clean look, otherwise black is fine)

Method:

 - weigh your prawn meat and take note

 - roughly chop the prawns (this helps puree it without heating it up too much)

 - in a food processor, puree the prawns very smooth - use prawn stock if desired and not how much was used

 - add an equal weight of tapioca flour to the prawn meat (and stock) and pulse to make a sticky dough

 - season with salt and pepper (you can be a bit on the generous side here)

 - divide the dough between large vacuum bags so there's room to roll the dough thin

 - seal the bags tight

 - roll the dough inside the bag to about 2mm thick

 - poach or steam about 25 minutes so the dough is fully cooked

 - cool in an ice bath

 - remove from the bag

 - cut shapes with a knife or wait and break shards later

 - dehydrate completely

 - break the sheet into pieces if you didn't cut it before

 - fry at 350F / 177C until fully puffed

 - drain on paper towel

 - season

 - serve